Gem/Topic of the
Month
Each month this section will feature
either a topic of interest to gem lovers or one special
gemstonespecies with background on the material and its
value.
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September, 2004
Hardness
Hardness is a gem's
ability to resist scratching of its surface. This property derives
from the crystal structure of the gem in virtue of how densely the
atoms are packed and how strong the binding forces between them are.
It not only affects durability, but also has implications for the
potential luster of the polished gem, and dictates what sort of tools
the lapidary requires to work with it.
Most everyone has run
across the Mohs Scale of hardness which ranks materials in a kind of
pecking order from 1 at the low end (can't scratch anything other
than itself) to 10 at the high end (scratches all other gems,
including itself). This scale was set up by the Austrian
mineralogist, Friedrich Mohs, in 1827. He chose Talc, Gypsum,
Calcite, Fluorite, Apatite, Orthoclase, Quartz, Topaz, Corundum and
Diamond as the representatives of hardnesses 1-10, respectively.
Mineralogists and
geologists can determine the approximate hardness of their specimens
by using a set of "hardness points" which are metal pens set with
pointed tips made of these minerals. The unknown specimen's hardness
is determined by sequentially using the points until the one which
will not scratch the specimen is found. So if hardness point #8 will
scratch the item, but #7 will not, then its hardness lies between 7
and 8.
A kind of field, or
practical, version of this test is often used by rockhounds and
amateur geologists:
1, 2
(VERY EASILY AND EASILY SCRATCHED BY FINGERNAIL)
3,4 (VERY EASILY AND
EASILY SCRATCHED BY COPPER COIN)
5,6 (VERY EASILY AND
EASILY SCRATCHED POCKETKNIFE BLADE)
7 (SCRATCHES WINDOW
GLASS, SCRATCHED BY STEEL FILE)
8 - 10 (SCRATCHES
WINDOW GLASS, NOT SCRATCHED BY STEEL FILE)
The numbers on this
simple and useful scale are sometimes misunderstood to be linear or
proportional in their meaning, which is not true. In order to get
precise determinations of hardness a device called a sclerometer is
used. It pushes a diamond point into a surface and measures the exact
force needed for penetration. This type of test belies our feeling
that apatite (4 on the Mohs Scale), must be about half as hard as
topaz (8 on the Mohs Scale). Sclerometer readings show that a topaz
gem requires 8.5 times the force to scratch as does an apatite. For
corundum (9) and diamond (10) the difference is even more striking --
with diamond testing as 140x as hard as sapphire.
Soft
Gems

Ivory & Jet =
2.5, Pearl = 3, Sphalerite = 3.5, Fluorite = 4

Intermediate
Gems

Scapolite = 6, Tanzanite = 6.5,
Garnet = 7. - 7.5, Tourmaline = 7.5

Hard Gems

Spinel = 8, Topaz =
8, Chrysoberyl = 8.5, Corundum = 9

Hardness can vary with
crystal direction. The most famous example of this phenomenon is the
gem kyanite with dual hardnesses of 5 and 7, depending on direction.
Going with the "weakest link" idea, we are well advised to treat
kyanite as a relatively soft gem. Lapidaries working with this gem
have to constantly adjust their pressure and speed so that progress
is made on the harder areas, yet softer areas are not
overcut.
Kyanite H = 5 &
7
Interestingly, if
diamond crystals did not vary
in hardness with direction, they couldn't be cut and polished with
diamond abrasives. The diamond cutting process uses a slurry of tiny
crystals of natural or synthetic "bort" (industrial grade diamond) on
a spinning hard iron surface (lap). As the various facets of the
diamond are cut and polished they are subjected to these randomly
oriented crystals, at least some of which have harder surfaces
exposed than the facet being cut. The hardest crystal direction of a
diamond is the "octahedral" face which, literally, cannot be polished
-- so part of the job of the diamond cutter is to orient the rough to
avoid this plane in any of the facets.
Even with the variable
hardness factor, diamond cutting is time consuming. It requires
specialized equipment, capable of greater rotational speed of the
cutting wheel and greater pressure on the gem than does equipment
used to cut colored stones. Although there are a few cutters who have
the skill and equipment necessary to work both with diamonds and
colored stones, the vast majority specialize in one or the
other.
Although hardness is an
important characteristic in a gem, it is by no means
the final measure of a gem's wearability or suitability for a
particular use. All other factors being equal, the harder the gem,
the better it will wear. But, there
are two other factors which make all the difference in the world: a
gem's toughness and its stability.
Each of these
attributes will be treated in subsequent essays, but for now, a brief
synopsis. Toughness is the ability to resist breaking or chipping,
and is an extremely important consideration when selecting a gem for,
say, an engagement ring.
A hard gem will retain
its polish, but if it is not tough, it may chip or break. A notable
example is topaz. With hardness 8, it might seem ideal for an
everyday ring or bracelet -- but it is, in fact, a rather fragile
gem. Due to its tendency to cleave (break cleanly along a cyrstal
plane), topaz chips readily.
On the other hand, jade
with a hardness between 6 and 6.5 might seem a poor candidate for
heavy wear, but truth be told, it is the toughest of all natural gem
materials and wears like iron! Its seemingly contradictory historical
uses both in the most intricate and delicate carvings, and as
workaday tools such as axes, is testament to its durability.
Stability meaures a
gem's ability to resist changes due to light, chemicals and heat.
It's little comfort to have a hard and/or tough gem, if it can be
altered by absorbing chemicals from the air or skin, like pearls, or
if its color changes due to light exposure like brown
topaz.
In general, jewelry
that is worn more than occasionally should be set with gems of at
least hardness 7 that have relatively high toughness and stability.
Softer, more fragile, and less stable gems can be enjoyed in jewelry
that has protective settings or which is worn gently. Extremely delicate gems are best kept as collectors'
objects.
**********
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Go to: Homepage
-- what's new in faceted
gems -- what's new in
designer cabochons and gem carvings --
gem of the month --
gem of the month archive --
birthstone of the month --
key to all the codes used on the ACS
site -- definitions of
terms used on the ACS site
-- how to order
-- about ACS --
about the ACS cutters --
settings for these gems
--faceting information
-- purchase UltraTec
equipment
-- Mail to
barbara@acstones.com